Four Things to do on the Island of Salina

One of my best pals is planning a trip to Salina and I realized I had never written about the all too brief time I spent on the island during my trip to the Aeolian Islands last autumn. 

If you love Ponza, you will love Salina. Both places share a relaxed vibe, gorgeous, but not perfect, beauty and just enough glamour to sparkle without making you feel like you don't belong. 

Here four things that I recommend on the island of Salina.

Granita at Alfredo
Piazza Marina Garibaldi

Granita in Sicily is shaved much finer than grattacheccha in Rome and the lemon granita you stop for on the twisty Amalfi Coast road. It is almost creamy. The address in Salina for this frozen treat is Alfredo. Sit by the sea and over a tall glass dish with two seasonal flavors, I recommend gelsi (mulberry) and pistacchio. Do not forget to order a fresh brioche on the side to scoop up every last freezing cold drop before it melts.

Visit the Black Sand Beach in Rinella

Most people arrive on Salina at the main port of Santa Maria but there is another port in Salina. On the other side of the island is a stretch of beach with dramatic black sand and a tangle of houses perched in the cliffs. Throw your town down amongst the colorful fishing boats and soak in the September sun. 

Eat Capers and Drink Malvasia

The green hills of Salina are home to acres of vines that produce the sweet and dry (yes that's possible) dessert wine and sharp tangy capers. Early fall is harvest time for the renowned Malvasia dell Lipari grapes. You will see both on pretty much every menu on the island. Make sure you try them. 

Watch the Sunset in Pollara

Much of the famous film Il Postino was filmed on Salina and Pollara is where the exiled Neruda lived and dispensed advice to the lovelorn Mario on how to capture the heart of the beautiful Beatrice. There is a slip of a rocky beach a long climb down a set of steps. L'Oasi is a rustic bar with the best views out over the small islands of Allicudi and Filicudi and for a dramatic sunset spritz.