A Weekend in Pretty Procida
Just as easy to reach from Rome and Naples, this small quiet place is often overlooked for it's flashier (Capri) or larger (Ischia) neighbors. Last weekend we decided to leave the car behind in Rome and island hop. Here are a few of my favorite discoveries on the pretty island of Procida.
How to get to Procida
From Rome take the fast train to Naples, Have a quick cup of coffee at Cafe Mexico and then hop in a cab (cost about €10) to the port.
The buzzy Il Cavaliere in the Marina Grande is where what counts as action in Procida happens. Order a spritz, which comes with a tasty tray of snacks and watch scooters fly by, kids coming home from school and ferries coming and going.
There are regular ferries that leave from Naples Molo Beverello (SNAV - Fast closed hydrofoil ) or Calata di Massa (Caremar - slower open topped ferry boat). The trip takes about an hour. In July and August I advise that you get your tickets ahead of time as Procida is a popular weekend destination.
What to Do in Procida
What to Do in Procida
Snap a Pic
The pastel colored picture perfect fishing village of Coricella lives up to it's fame. Walk up the Salita Castello and fill your Instgram feed with your own enviable shots.
Take a Walk
Procida is tiny. There are a few beaches, that were not quite open yet, a few stores and restaurants and that is about it. Mark loved being able to walk from end to end of the island in a few hours. We explored the long beachfront of Ciraccio, were disappointed to see the locked gates leading to the nature reserve Isola de Vivara, had the famous Il Postino beach completely to ourselves where we traded favorite snippets of romantic Neruda poetry and decided not to take the nearly 200 steps to Chiaia beach, opting for negronis with artist friends back in Marina di Coricella instead.
Have a Drink
Il Cavaliere
via Roma 42
via marina corricella 87
If a quiet drink with a waterside view it what you are after, the friendly Chiaro del Luna is the place for you. We watched a theatrical lightening storm while we sipped our negronis as the sun set on this picturesque bay.
Where to Eat in Procida
Local seafood like anchovies, calamari and tuna and lemons are what is on the menu in Procida. I ordered the island's signature dish Insalata di Limone at every single meal. This refreshing salad is made with a lemon variety known on the island as limone di pane with a wide pith that is not bitter and tart fruit is dressed with olive oil, chili pepper, sliced fresh onion and shreds of fresh mint.
We had excellent meals at Fammivento in the Marina Grande and Il Maestrale in Coricella.
Il Maestrale
Via Marina Corricella 29
+39 081 8101889
Via Marina Corricella 29
+39 081 8101889
via Roma 39
+39 081 8969020
Where to Stay
All white and blue glazed tiles with views out over the Marina Coricella, this simple elegant hotel was the perfect base for our very relaxing few days. Breakfast in the enchanting garden was a wonderful start to each day. There is strong coffee, warm local pastries, lemon marmalade that I wish I had a vat of back here in Rome, and a carefully curated soundtrack.
Background Reading and Viewing
The dark and twisty The Talented Mr. Ripley and the heartwarming Il Postino were both filmed on Procida.
Looking for more information about pretty islands? Download my ebook Ponza Travel Essentials
Oh I loved this! Especially as I have never heard of it although I had already seen it in both of the movies mentioned. If I lived closer, I would go just for the insalata alone... :)
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